2007 Ant Hill Farms Winery Russian River Valley Syrah
A relatively new winery in Sonoma County, this collaboration of three wine makers has already created quite a buzz in the region and started to garner some fans around the country. While their primary focus is around Pinot Noir, I was able to try one of their Syrahs, which tend to have some characteristics of the former.
This Russian River Syrah is in fact a very atypical style from California, where the wines tend to be over-ripe and fruit driven. This is much more reserved in style and subtle in flavors. I can’t say this is exactly European but it does has a drier, earthier style. The wine is lighter in body and possesses more delicate flavors mixed within the layers.
It didn’t have any overly complex nose, but what was there was more in the area of dried herbs and tea scents. It also has some dark plum in the bouquet. The flavor profile was also similar. Again, the wine has a focus on dark fruits, including plum and blackberry. There were also hints of lavender and black tea spice mixed into palate. Initally, the wine was rather tight, and has a decent grip thanks to tannins that didn’t overwhelm the wine, but always let you know they were there. A higher level of acidity also helps to keep this wine a little lighter on the finish.
Drinking this over two nights, the earthiness continued to evolve. I’d say the first night, the wine was a little tight and considerably lighter bodied. However on the second night, the air has allowed the wine to expand and become much richer with the fruit becoming more present. I noticed more tobacco and mushroom as well.
Overall, this was an interesting wine. It was possibly missing a little body and structure to really make it a stellar wine, but it did do a nice job of playing to the middle of the road for California Syrah.
My Rating: Brick Solid


