2007 Ant Hill Farms Winery Russian River Valley Syrah

22 November 2010

A relatively new winery in Sonoma County, this collaboration of three wine makers has already created quite a buzz in the region and started to garner some fans around the country. While their primary focus is around Pinot Noir, I was able to try one of their Syrahs, which tend to have some characteristics of the former.

Anthill Farms Syrah

Anthill Farms Syrah

This Russian River Syrah is in fact a very atypical style from California, where the wines tend to be over-ripe and fruit driven. This is much more reserved in style and subtle in flavors. I can’t say this is exactly European but it does has a drier, earthier style. The wine is lighter in body and possesses more delicate flavors mixed within the layers.

It didn’t have any overly complex nose, but what was there was more in the area of dried herbs and tea scents. It also has some dark plum in the bouquet. The flavor profile was also similar. Again, the wine has a focus on dark fruits, including plum and blackberry. There were also hints of lavender and black tea spice mixed into palate. Initally, the wine was rather tight, and has a decent grip thanks to tannins that didn’t overwhelm the wine, but always let you know they were there. A higher level of acidity also helps to keep this wine a little lighter on the finish.

Drinking this over two nights, the earthiness continued to evolve. I’d say the first night, the wine was a little tight and considerably lighter bodied. However on the second night, the air has allowed the wine to expand and become much richer with the fruit becoming more present. I noticed more tobacco and mushroom as well.

Overall, this was an interesting wine. It was possibly missing a little body and structure to really make it a stellar wine, but it did do a nice job of playing to the middle of the road for California Syrah.

My Rating: Brick Solid

2005 Bradford Mountain Zinfandel Grist Vineyard

17 November 2010

Its time for zinfandel! That’s right – the air is getting cold, the leaves are falling, and its starting to feel like time for a big American red wine. What’s that you say? Tired of the high-octane Zins? Too much alcohol, and sugar and fruit? Well, there is a growing trend in California for some Zinfandel that doesn’t have to take the paint off the shed, and gives you a nice well balanced wine for under 15% ABV.

Bradford Mountain

Bradford Mountain

This Bradford Mountain wine is just one just option. This wine tends to have a little softer approach, and also maybe a little more rustic. It was medium bodied with firm tannins, blackberries, and tobacco. There were also hints of earth and mushrooms, mixed in with the more typical blueberries and chocolate. There was a nice nose to this wine, that just got better as it was opened.

Additionally, I found this to be a very easy drinking wine. I didn’t feel overblown by the alcohol level and enjoyed the wine through till the end. Now overall, was the wine perfect? No, there were some flaws (maybe a little short on the finish, not as seamless as it could have been). But I think it showed a style of wine that is a move back to the more rustic form of Zinfandel that can be enjoyed with a burger or any number of all-American foods.

So this Thanksgiving, as you reach for the Zin, make sure its not one of the high-octane wine that will just ultimately put you to sleep. Go for something a little different.

My Rating: 91pts

2004 Bugay Cabernet Sauvignon

16 October 2010

This Sonoma Cabernet appears to have suffered in the gradual push away from the high-priced California wines that have given rise to all of the wine discount and liquidation sites around the web. Originally sold for $60, its been seen around the web for as little as $20. Part of it could be quality, but most likely its just a case where there’s too much wine in the market and its causing a pricing trend downward.

Bugay Cabernet Sauvignon

Bugay Cabernet Sauvignon

Luckily that’s good news for the collector, as we can now get ahold of previously difficult to own wines, and many times at up to half what they once sold for. Sites like WTSO, CinderellaWine, and WineSpies are giving rise to the new wine consumerism: bargain hunting.

I picked this wine up for $20 through CinderellaWine, and it does appear to have some qualities that would make it worth say $40 but it in the end probably really isn’t a $60 wine. It does have a decent structure, good fruit, and a earthy core. This wine is not a fruit bomb like so many these days and does tend to have a little more subtle texture to it.

Overall, its a good value at $20 and worth the deal I got in the end. I think it teaches one important lesson from all of the discount sites. You get what you pay for. I most cases, you probably get a little more. But you can’t always expect to get double your value by paying half price. There’s a reason these wines make it to the discounter in the first place.

Overall Rating: 89pts

Kangarilla Road Shiraz 2006

16 July 2010

This McLaren-Vale winery makes a number of mid-priced wines, relatively cost-friendly in relation to the quality from these wines. The winemakers seem to come from the position of creating more accessible wines that don’t require a lot of cellar time, but still have something interesting to say. Always nice when you don’t have to wait around to drink a decent wine.

Kangarilla Road Shiraz

Kangarilla Road Shiraz

Off the top, this wine is very austere. It has a little nose, not much, with raspberry and clove mixed in with some oak. I have to say that the flavor palate changes very little from start to finish with a woodsy, earthy quality. I get a little bit of bell pepper on nose as well. The tannins are integrated nicely with a medium-length finish. There’s also a bit of jamminess at some level but it can’t be said that it’s overly fruity. This wine has a smooth finish and nice structure. Initally, on opening it I couldn’t tell if I liked it or not. However, the wine really grows on you and I grew to definitely like!

With a floral finish mixed with Lavender and honey, I also pick up more tobacco, mushroom, and bell pepper. All in all, the fruit is nicely integrated without compromising the wine structure and quality. With the price around $15, the wine delivers exactly as its makers hoped. You have here a wine that is structured, not overly jammy or fruity, easy drinking with just that hint of something a little more complex. I’ve got to rate this wine borderline outstanding.

Bleasdale Cabernet Sauvignon Mulberry Tree 2006

14 July 2010

Bleasdale Mulberry Tree

Bleasdale Mulberry Tree

Bleasdale produces a number of Cabernet and Shiraz bottles. I’ve had a few of their wines prior and they are usually a good value both on their lower end and top tier wines. The Mulberry Tree Cabernet is one of their entry level releases. The wine from Langhorne Creek region sells for around $13.

So how did it taste? Upfront this wine has a very nice nose, full of blueberries and blackberry fruit. There’s some oak and spice, but mostly you just get the jammy fruit on the nose. The flavor is also very jammy, and somewhat Shiraz-like. There’s a decent amount of structure, and some cassis flavoring to give it that Napa cab feel.

Overall, its a pretty smooth wine, with a little bit of tannins there to give it mouth-feel and body on the finish. Maybe a hint of bell pepper mixed in as well. I’m going to rate this wine a Brick Solid just based on the fact that I could get the initial flavors I’d find in a Napa cab for half the price I’d normally see for something out of California. Its an easy-drinking wine that could be a great addition at the next barbecue.

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