Monthly Archives: November 2010

In search of a quick meal as I was heading out of town, I was craving a bahn mi sandwich. Doing a little research, I found out about this tiny little sandwich shop that makes a Cambodian alternative to the Vietnamese specialty.

Good: I had the Duroc Pork Sandwich, layered with pickled veggies and peppers. It was coated with a delicious sauce, and served on a big crusty french roll. They have a number of specialty sandwiches like this including a catfish and pork meatball choice. Each of these fairly large sandwiches will set you back about $6.50.

Bad: Its a small place and not much on frills but they have a few seats upstairs in case you want to dine in. Also if its busy, you might have to wait a little since the kitchen is small.

Wine: No wine but don’t pass on the wonderful blood orange lemonade.

Overall: This literal “hole in the wall” was a terrific find. The food is fresh and very flavorful. Its perfect for a quick lunch or to take home for dinner. I was really impressed how high the quality of the food was.

A relatively new winery in Sonoma County, this collaboration of three wine makers has already created quite a buzz in the region and started to garner some fans around the country. While their primary focus is around Pinot Noir, I was able to try one of their Syrahs, which tend to have some characteristics of the former.

Anthill Farms Syrah

This Russian River Syrah is in fact a very atypical style from California, where the wines tend to be over-ripe and fruit driven. This is much more reserved in style and subtle in flavors. I can’t say this is exactly European but it does has a drier, earthier style. The wine is lighter in body and possesses more delicate flavors mixed within the layers.

It didn’t have any overly complex nose, but what was there was more in the area of dried herbs and tea scents. It also has some dark plum in the bouquet. The flavor profile was also similar. Again, the wine has a focus on dark fruits, including plum and blackberry. There were also hints of lavender and black tea spice mixed into palate. Initally, the wine was rather tight, and has a decent grip thanks to tannins that didn’t overwhelm the wine, but always let you know they were there. A higher level of acidity also helps to keep this wine a little lighter on the finish.

Drinking this over two nights, the earthiness continued to evolve. I’d say the first night, the wine was a little tight and considerably lighter bodied. However on the second night, the air has allowed the wine to expand and become much richer with the fruit becoming more present. I noticed more tobacco and mushroom as well.

Overall, this was an interesting wine. It was possibly missing a little body and structure to really make it a stellar wine, but it did do a nice job of playing to the middle of the road for California Syrah.

My Rating: Brick Solid

Located in the East Village, this tiny Italian restaurant prides itself on bring a modern flair to Italian cooking. This is definitely a neighborhood spot first and foremost, but due to the inventive cooking and romantic feel of the dining room, it has developed a strong reputation from critics.

Perbacco

Good: A warm, inviting atmosphere created by cozy confines and soft lighting. Wonderful melt in your mouth pastas and risottos. Great cheeses and appetizers. Interesting spins on Italian staples. Prices are very reasonable.

Bad: Could be a little tight for those that are claustrophobic. Bathrooms could be updated or expanded.

Wine: One of the real highlights. Great all-Italian wine lists, with very floral and expressive wines. Average pricing, and good choices up and down the boot.

Overall: A really enjoyable experience. Its perfect for a romantic dinner out, and it really does fit the bill as a perfect neighborhood gem. Between the wine and the food, you’d be hard pressed to find a better Italian experience for the price.

Its time for zinfandel! That’s right – the air is getting cold, the leaves are falling, and its starting to feel like time for a big American red wine. What’s that you say? Tired of the high-octane Zins? Too much alcohol, and sugar and fruit? Well, there is a growing trend in California for some Zinfandel that doesn’t have to take the paint off the shed, and gives you a nice well balanced wine for under 15% ABV.

Bradford Mountain

This Bradford Mountain wine is just one just option. This wine tends to have a little softer approach, and also maybe a little more rustic. It was medium bodied with firm tannins, blackberries, and tobacco. There were also hints of earth and mushrooms, mixed in with the more typical blueberries and chocolate. There was a nice nose to this wine, that just got better as it was opened.

Additionally, I found this to be a very easy drinking wine. I didn’t feel overblown by the alcohol level and enjoyed the wine through till the end. Now overall, was the wine perfect? No, there were some flaws (maybe a little short on the finish, not as seamless as it could have been). But I think it showed a style of wine that is a move back to the more rustic form of Zinfandel that can be enjoyed with a burger or any number of all-American foods.

So this Thanksgiving, as you reach for the Zin, make sure its not one of the high-octane wine that will just ultimately put you to sleep. Go for something a little different.

My Rating: 91pts

Another New York trip, another David Chang restaurant, serving Asian-focused dishes with an accent on noodles. As with Saam Bar, their focus tends to be taking foods common to Asian dishes combined with regionally produced products from the US. The results are flavorful and inspired.

Good: Ambience is good, with a blonde-wood color scheme and a large bar area for the noodle-slurping. Its a small space but with the modern touches, it still feels open. The roasted rice cakes in so much pork fat, it should be against the law are a hit. It was also a huge portion. Loved the fantastic apple-crisp ice cream that I could eat all day. Lunch deal is only $30 for three courses, which is a lot of food by the end.

Bad: Again the broth on the pho-style soup just ok – had a duck ramen that was just so-so. Also they didn’t have much in the way of non-alcoholic drinks to enjoy from. Water and soda mostly.

Wine: Didn’t have a chance to check the wine list since I was enjoying this during my lunch hour. Maybe next time.

Overall: Well worth the trip for lunch though I think I prefer Saam – I think I’d stay away from the price-fixe next time and go for more appetizers. They really do a great job with the steamed buns and the Rice Cakes. I’ve been so-so on the ramen so far, but they do their pork products proud.